Two more sleeps 'til Singapore

Today I had a plan. A study plan. With Alan in Australia this weekend I had no excuse not to hit the books and do some pre-training reading. In less than 48 hours I will be on my way to Singapore for a 5 day yoga teacher training workshop with Sarah Powers, one of my favourite teachers from the US. I took a couple of classes with her last year at the Yoga Journal Conference in San Francisco and I was hooked...I've been wanting to study with her ever since. So, yes, I'm really looking forward to it!

What I wasn't expecting today was the feeling of being torn between wanting to stick to my study schedule and to start ticking things off my Going Away To Do list and desperately wanting to go out for a hike, or even just to be outside. It was Perfect weather again. For a while it was touch "n" go but I managed to remain focussed on My Plan and made do with a very slow walk to Starbucks for my morning coffee and then headed back to the apartment, took up residence again on my favourite chair, pointing towards the tree-covered hillside and immersed myself in the final chapters. A few hours later, I'd finished the book. It wasn't so bad...firstly the book was excellent and left me wanting more and secondly, as there is no construction going on below us on a Sunday, it was beautifully peaceful (apart from the symphony of beeping taxis, which is a common sound here) and with a gentle breeze wafting in from the open window, I almost felt like I was outside.... my air purifier may have had to work overtime afterwards as a result as there's a price to pay for opening windows here, but it was worth it.

Perfect Day

The thing about living on the 22nd floor of an apartment block without a balcony is that until you make the effort and take the elevator, walk the length of the lobby level and then take another elevator to ground level, you can not really predict what the weather is really like outside. That probably sounds really lazy of me, but even if the elevators all arrive promptly this journey can take 5 minutes. I miss the ease of simply unlocking the back door and stepping outside onto the deck and just feeling, instantly, what it's like out there.

I've tried opening the window and sticking my arm out (without looking down because that makes me feel dizzy) to test for temperature and humidity levels but it's not always accurate. There is always a subtle difference once you reach ground level.

Today, in addition to my pre-training study schedule, I had some chores to run. I did the window test as usual and it seemed surprisingly pleasant so I quite happily got suitably attired and headed out. For one who probably seems to complain a lot about the weather here, I wanted to make a point of blogging today because the weather was PERFECT. That's right...Perfect. It felt like Spring; very pleasantly warm (no jacket required after all), a gentle breeze, sunshine...no humidity...perfect.

As is often the way when you are on a learning curve and trying to do things for the first time, my chores did not all go to plan and that's all I'll say on that because it didn't matter. I accomplished what I accomplished and then as it was so gorgeous, I decided to enjoy my usual morning coffee in the park rather than at home. I purchased my take-away coffee and started walking towards my favourite place. My private sanctuary.

Just like any city, lunchtime gets very busy here with all the office workers taking their lunch break so I didn't fancy my chances of getting a park bench to sit on, let alone my very favourite seat in the entire park, but as often happens on days like this, when the sun is shining and you feel good about life, it all worked out. As I made my way up some steps I noticed people below eating lunch in an open air restaurant...the birds were singing...and the inviting sound of the waterfall got more intense as I got closer to it and as I rounded the final corner, took the few steps down to the little courtyard, I was thrilled to discover that My Private Sanctuary was waiting for me.

There were people filling all the other benches I'd passed but this was my little slice of heaven. As it always does, the sound of the waterfall drowned out all the other noises...of which there are many at this time of day...and there I sat and enjoyed my coffee. Like the weather, it was perfect. I didn't want to leave but I knew I had to...my books were waiting...

Pollution levels back to High (aka Normal)

Phew.

This was the view from my apartment today. Much better. The pollution levels have dropped again, back to their normal (high) levels. Yesterday the rating was "severe" and way off the scale. It was quite a disturbing day and I feel much better knowing things are back to normal. Normal may not be good...but it's better.

In fact, given where we were yesterday this is a shockingly good view...haven't seen little white fluffy clouds against a blue background for a while!

Is Hong Kong bad for your health?

Hong Kong's air pollution reaches record levels

My view from the apartment today. Somewhere beyond the high rise apartments and the greyness are some beautiful green mountains but I have not seen them for a while.

So, we all know that I tend to "go on a bit" about the grey sky here and I've more than hinted at my concern about the pollution levels. I try not to think about it, but some days I can feel it in my hair and on my skin. A part of me also wanted to believe I was over-reacting, simply missing the clear blue skies of Ottawa or even the UK for that matter, because the UK has nothing on this amount of grey or worse case scenario, perhaps I was suffering from a touch of SAD?

Yes, all the grey has been getting me down a bit lately but lets face it, that's just a response...a natural one, but something I can do my best to pull myself out of, if I really want to. What I feel more powerless to do is to affect the exceedingly high pollution levels that have been recorded over Hong Kong these last few days. Apparently levels have reached a record high. That's not good. The air looks polluted and it seems it really is; very polluted. So much so that even the government are warning people not to go outside. Last night I received an email from a local hiking group informing us of the situation and strongly urging us not to go hiking for the next few days because the air quality is currently so bad, that it is actually dangerous for our health. So suddenly, by default, hiking is now bad for us here. I find that quite shocking. I did have plans for today involving the outdoors, but I've since changed them as a result of this news and more to the point, the fact that since yesterday morning, even before I'd seen any article or snippet of news on the latest situation, I found myself feeling short of breath, a bit wheezy and coughing for no apparent reason after my morning in Causeway Bay. Today I feel like heeding the government's advice and staying home. Having said that, I know that the air in the apartment is somewhat dodgy too because our air purifier has been telling us so since the weekend. We had been wondering why it was on Red...now we know!

I know I can't stay in forever and that this is another response to a situation. As wonderful as life is, it is full of dangers, many much greater than air pollution, but we are free to make conscious choices and today I choose to avoid the great outdoors in the hope that at the very least, my itchy throat and irritating cough do not get any worse.

Five Days...Five Boats

For a girl who really is not all that fond of water, there have certainly been a lot of boat trips lately, although I guess it's not all that surprising when you find yourself living on a small island, surrounded by lots of other islands that are just waiting to be explored!

The ferry is the usual mode of transport between the islands and the majority of them are pretty modern, comfortable and ultimately provide a smooth journey with relatively few bumps along the way. You can reach most of the islands in about 30 mins which is about as long as I usually want to be on a boat. My trip to Discovery Bay on the island of Lantau on Wednesday for hiking purposes, was such a journey.

The "junk" trip around the harbour on Wednesday evening was something else though. I've since learned that the water in the harbour is always choppy, so I'll remember that for future occasions...and try to avoid them.

On Saturday we were invited on another boat trip but this time departing from the south side of the island where the sea is much calmer and we spent just over an hour on beautifully calm waters, cruising down to an island south of Stanley called Po Toi. The weather was warm with a familiar haze but thankfully not much sign of humidity. I braved the upper deck where, if you could avoid the very excited and bouncy children (mainly toddlers) on board, you could chill out and take in the view. On arrival at Po Toi we docked and made our way down to the beach-front restaurant. A very "local" place. Open air with a yellow plastic roof to shield from the elements, plastic tables and chairs, concrete flooring...all very rustic in the true sense of the word. It's normal for me to feel a bit apprehensive about eating in places like this, but I needn't have been concerned because the food was excellent. Surprisingly so. But then our hosts already knew that...this was not their first visit and I can see why. The over-causual feel was strangely appealing. No need to dress up...flip flops welcome...although bug spray was required.

On Friday I took my first trip to the island of Cheung Chau with some friends. We were so lucky with the weather, it was the perfect day for island-hopping. Just a standard ferry for this trip and after the statutory 30 minutes we were docking again. I'm not sure if cars are banned on the entire island but there were no sign of any...just loads of bicycles, a harbour full of boats of all shapes and sizes and a whole fleet of miniature tractor-like vehicles that apparently were being used to ferry building materials back and forth...construction is just never ending it seems...even on a quiet and unspoiled island like Cheung Chau.

We strolled, snapped and finally settled on a place for lunch. The food was OK but our server was very entertaining..she wouldn't tell us her real name but apparently when translated, she is known as the "Fat woman"... or something equally unflattering. You have to admire the directness of this culture! Try that in a western society and there would be uproar..or at the very least some very upset people. She seemed to like it...

Yesterday's boat was tiny. Basically a motorized rowing boat with the sole purpose of getting us from Deep Water Bay to Middle Island...a trip that takes all of about 3 minutes. Good job...small boats are the most challenging for me...especially the getting in and out, but all was well and I have to say, it was actually quite fun...so close to the water it was as though were were skimming it...without getting wet...perfect.

This week I don't have any boat trips planned. I have a week of keeping my feet firmly on mother earth. Quite honestly I think I need that, I can still detect a gentle bobbing up and down, a slight swaying motion within....

I'll sleep well tonight

I'll sleep well tonight. Been on another Lantau hike today and somehow, although it was cloudy, I managed to get a spot of sunburn. Note to self...the clouds here are not to be trusted from this point on. Clearly the sun is closer than it felt. It was a good hike though, this time we walked up to the golf course and looked down over the harbour..visibility was better again today. After those few sunny days last week the fog returned full force and there has been no view to be seen for some days now. So whilst this photo looks rather grey and hazy, this is pretty good going.

So after a leisurely post-hike lunch in Discovery Bay we began our journey back to HK Island. First the 25 min ferry ride and then today, instead of walking the 30 mins home, I jumped on a bus to Wanchai. It was a full day and I could quite easily have settled down and put my feet up at this point, but I had a date with a boat. Our HK movers invited us both, but as usual, Alan is travelling, so I took a friend along with me for the ride. It was a tame evening of wine, canapes and chit chat with other newcomers but the swell was less tame. Well, by my standards anyway :-) It was a bit choppy and at times I had to take my gaze to the horizon. We cruised the harbour to the west and back again, passing the neon-light-strewn skyline rather quickly and then we were out amongst the cargo ships and goodness knows what else...boats everywhere around here. I wonder where they are all going. A lot of them just seem to rest there, loaded crates, balancing what appears to me, rather precariously. It reminds me of getting our stuff loaded into crates for the journey out here...is this why our stuff took so long to arrive? Was it simply sitting in the harbour for a month? Hmm...probably not, but my suspicions have been aroused.

After 2 hours on the water, I confess, I was glad to return to dry land. I will sleep well tonight.

A sunny day on Lantau Island

Silvermine Bay, Mui Wo

Today was a good day. After days, weeks and indeed months of cloudy, misty, grey days we had the most gorgeous day here in Hong Kong and as luck would have it, I was scheduled for a hike with some friends over on Lantau Island. We have done this walk together 3 times now and today was definitely the best so far. Visibility was good...a bit hazy...but I'm not sure we'll ever escape that in this part of the world. It was surprisingly crisp and at times downright chilly but THE SUN WAS OUT! :-) It was SO great to see blue sky and feel the heat of the sun shining down on us. Simple pleasures indeed. The hike was a good one and the beautiful weather even seemed to pacify the mad dog that always barks and growls at us as we pass by his territory on this route. Today, he was there as usual but he wasn't interested in giving us a hard time - he just sat, basking in the sun...co-incidence? I don't think so...the weather really can influence us all.

Looking down over Mui Wo Beach

I love this part of the hike when all you can see around you is green on either side and the ocean below you

Looking back towards Mui Wo

A view from the top

The Missing Seasons

Like any true Brit, I'm blaming the weather for this. For this mood of mine. And it's not just me, I hasten to add...others around me, mentioning no names, seem to be affected too.

Right now, I've seen enough grey, misty weather to last me a lifetime. I miss blue sky. Well, any sky really...I feel like I haven't seen the sky for months. Yes, that's a slight exaggeration, but only slight. Some days it seems moody and mystical to feel as though you are living in the clouds, unable to see the world that you know exists out there, but is hidden behind a vail of mist, but lets face it, for most of us, after a few days of these conditions, it's more likely to bring us down and leave us feeling claustrophobic, trapped even. Or perhaps that is just me. If I hadn't spent the last 3 winters in Canada it probably wouldn't be such a big deal for me, but I have, and I'm going to say it.....I miss canadian winters. I'd rather have snow and very cold crisp sunny days and blue sky over greyness, humid, damp, hot then cold but throughout it all, eternally grey weather. You get the picture.

I like seasons. My favourite, Autumn, does not seem to exist here. At least not in any recognisable form. I'm not quite sure how it works here but it seems like the leaves stay on the trees all winter until the new growth in the spring forces them to fall off because all of a sudden, within the last week or so, you can see new, fresh growth on a lot of the trees and old dead leaves underfoot but I have never seen a naked tree here. Today, it was like taking a walk in the woods back "home"...and this time I mean in the UK. Not exactly Burnham Beeches or anything but given the vast amount of trees in the Tai Tam Country Park, there was only a dusting of leaves on the ground. Where do they all go? Perhaps they don't all fall? It's a mystery to me, but I do know that simple as this may sound, I really enjoyed the novelty of walking on soggy wet leaves today...it really reminded me of walking in the woods on a cold, foggy, autumn day...it was nice. It felt familiar in a way I've not experienced here before. And, I am sure it will be back in a day or two but for now the humidity has dropped along with the temperatures and it's just cold and damp...just the way I remember the english winter.

Maybe the sun will make an appearance tomorrow...or I'll catch a glimpse of blue between the grey...

Expat Life

I was asked the question the other day, "so what is a typical day for you in Hong Kong?"

There is no typical day really, I like to change it up a bit because for me, variety is the spice of life and although I sometimes need routine to keep me sane, it also bores me slightly, so it's a fine line.

My weeks tend to consist of many of the same things, just rarely in the same order.

Today though, I feel like I am really living the "expat" life. There is a slight twinge of guilt at being able to do this stuff but then again, it's all swings and roundabouts because there's also plenty of difficult stuff to deal with which I tend not to blog about so much, but all you need to know is that life tends to find a natural balance and today was one of the good days.

So, in case you are curious as to what I perceive to be an "expat" lifestyle (and who knows if this is true for the majority, really) I started with a late morning yoga class (and yes, I bumped into an english expat friend of mine there) and then I received a call from a new expat friend of mine asking if I was around to meet for lunch. As is turns out, I didn't have time for lunch before my pedicure appointment but I did run round to her place for a quick coffee. I made it back just in time for my appointment and sat down with my cup of jasmine tea and my Japan Lonely Planet guide book (thinking of paying a brief visit next month) and winced while my feet were tweaked, pummelled and painted. Did I mention I don't really enjoy pedicures? What I like is the end result...pretty toe nails :-)

After that I headed to the equivalent of Waitrose, called Olivers here where I picked up a few essential food items for the weekend. I came stumbling out of the shop with a very full bag of stuff and unfortunately I needed a taxi during the shift change-over at around 4.30pm so it took at least 10-15 mins to get a taxi...tsk....that's a long wait here...but soon after that I was home briefly for a quick change before heading back out again for an early dinner with my lovely husband who had just emerged from a day of conference calls with various parts of the world. Having had dinner and now back home again, I find myself one more a conference call widow on a Friday evening. It's a tough life but...it's all about swings and roundabouts...

Hiking in the Clouds

I've been for a couple of hikes in the last 2 days. I'm determined to make the most of the remote and hilly bits of Hong Kong before the summer (and the real heat) arrives as I know I will be less inclined to do vertical hikes in the heat of the asian sun. It is hotting up already and humidity is high. I am emptying 2 dehumidifiers about 6 times a day. That's humid in my book! Thing is, you just know this is only the tip of the iceberg...

On Sunday Alan and I did Dragons Back again. This was my 3rd trek along the ridge that juts out into the ocean on the south side of the island. Once in December, then again in January, this time in February. I know the view is potentially stunning up there with a vista to impress because I've seen photos in my hiking books, but unfortunately I just haven't really seen it yet with my own eyes. The best sighting was in December and that was hazy to say the least. I am beginning to wonder if the mist, the clouds, the pollution...whatever it is...perhaps it is a mix of all of the above...well, I'm beginning to wonder if it's a permanent thing. Surely not...the books wouldn't lie to me, I will just have to keep on returning until I get to see this fantastic view that everyone tells me is there, but for now, this was the view on Sunday.

Kind of mystical and beautiful in it's own way.